WASHINGTON,
Jan. 20, 2016 - Now that some of the biggest grocery chains, food processing
firms and fast food restaurants have jumped on the cage-free egg bandwagon,
what’s to come of the traditional “caged” egg industry in the United States?
Well, in
short, cages aren’t going anywhere fast. Jason Karwal with USDA’s Agricultural
Marketing Service (AMS) told Agri-Pulse
conventional cage-free eggs accounted for 4.5 percent of U.S. egg production as
of September 2015, up from 2.8 percent the year before, and 1.6 percent in
2007.
Add in
organic eggs, which must be cage-free to be certified, and only 8.6 percent of all
eggs produced in the U.S. in 2015 were cage-free. Say demand increases as much
as it has in the last year – 1.7 percent – and there will still be a lot of
laying hens in cages for years to come.
But that
doesn’t change the fact that there has been a remarkable shift in consumer
demand that has prompted pause within the egg industry. Are cage-free eggs the
way of the future? And if they are, can egg producers meet cage-free demand?
Ask Josh
Balk, senior food policy director for the Humane Society of the United States
(HSUS), and he’ll tell you egg suppliers “see the writing the wall.” To
American consumers, “cage-free has become the new bar” for humane treatment of
laying hens, and the entire egg supply chain understands that, he said.
That’s why
in the latter part of 2015, a steady stream of companies pledged to source only
cage-free eggs by certain deadlines. Their transitions to cage-free have been
“going very smooth,” Balk said, in large part because the companies worked with
their egg suppliers to develop transition timelines with policy “phase-ins”
that were feasible for all parties.
The
companies that have made the pledge – McDonald’s, Costco, Wal-Mart
and more than 30 others – “know that their suppliers are
working with them, not against them,” he said, to meet five-year or 10-year
deadlines.
Denny’s just announced Thursday it would go 100 percent
cage free – the first, but probably not the last restaurant in the family
dining sector to switch. Mondelez International, a global snacking powerhouse, announced Friday, and ConAgra Foods, the maker of Egg Beaters, said
Monday it plans to be all cage-free by 2025. Even some of the top egg producers
in the country – including Rose Acre Farms, Rembrandt Foods and Michael Foods – have goals to go entirely
cage-free, and the biggest producer, Cal-Maine Foods, is taking steps in that
direction.
Ken
Klippen, president of the National Association of Egg Farmers, told Agri-Pulse that “by and large, producers
will be able to meet demand” for cage-free eggs once these companies’ deadlines
are up, but it’ll cost producers and consumers.
Cage
facilities are built like a high-rise building – in every “unit,” or cage, six
birds live their entire lives, each having about 67 square inches of space. A
cage-free facility of the same square footage can house only a fraction of the
birds a cage facility can – Klippen estimated one-sixth the number – and they
cost about $10 more per chicken to build.
The
biggest egg farmers can pay $30 per chicken to make the switch, and they do so
because their consumers demand it, Klippen said. But many of the small or
contract egg producers he represents, can’t afford the transition.
Consumers,
too, will likely notice their cage-free eggs are around double the price of
conventional eggs. Last week for instance, a dozen large, white cage-free eggs
went for, on average nationally, $3.77, while a Grade A dozen of white, large
eggs went for $1.42, according to AMS’s shell egg national summary.
And then
there’s the question of whether going cage-less is any better for the chickens.
HSUS says that cage-free colonies are more humane for the birds – it gives them
more space to spread their wings and do the things that chickens do, like perching
and nesting, the group says.
But
Klippen argues that the extra room puts the hens at greater risk of injury and
death due to another thing that chickens naturally do – peck each other.
Chickens
are hierarchical and they peck at each other routinely, regardless of how much
room they have to roam. According to a study by the Coalition for Sustainable
Egg Supply, an industry funded academic research team, cage-free chickens
experience three times the mortality rate of caged chickens partly because of
pecking, but mostly due to low blood calcium levels and egg yolk peritonitis
(leakage of egg yolk into the abdominal cavity).
The eggs
laid in a cage-free system aren’t necessarily as safe for human consumption as
conventional eggs either. In cage-less systems, hens sometimes lay their eggs
on the ground – the same place they defecate – or in nesting boxes, where
manure also ends up.
Several USDA studies have found eggshell bacteria
levels on cage-free eggs were significantly higher than eggs laid in
conventional, slatted cages. However, once the eggs were washed with a
commercial grade solution, as is the industry standard, no significant
difference in E. coli or coliform levels were found.
#30
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